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Stillwater Runs Deep
Stillwater is a sleepy town on the St.Croix River, some 32 miles from the twin Cities. It was at Stillwater that Minnesota achieved statehood in 1858. Today it is a drowsy riverside town, but in the 19th century it was a rowdy frontier settlement with the elegant Sawyer House hotel as the only oasis of eastern gentility in an otherwise boisterous wilderness. The old Sawyer House thrived, but gradually became outdated and was demolished in 1924. Immediately the construction of a new hotel began and Elmore Lowell – the “first citizen” of Stillwater - gave the hotel its name and opened the colonial style structure in 1927. During the demise of the Sawyer House, the construction and the first years of the Lowell Inn, two young people, actress Nelle and pianist Arthur Palmer Sr., were touring the mid-west. They stayed in many hostelries, both good and bad, and their experience made them ask: “Why cannot we, with our years of travel, establish the kind of inn we would consider ideal?” In 1930 the Lowell Inn needed new management and the Palmers at the opportunity. The inn was to be their home – and they their guests must feel that they were in a real home – their home. This, then, is the real charm of the Lowell Inn. It is the home, still, of the Palmers: second generation. Arthur and Maureen supervise everything and seven of their nine children are on hand to assist. The 13 flags of the original colonies flutter from the great white pillars that frame the porch. Inside, the lobby is like a living room, the exquisite furnishings lovingly purchased through the years by Nelle Palmer. It’s as though the reception desk, tucked away under some chairs, were an afterthought; a place where friends, nor travelers, sign the family guest book. On the two upper floors are the 25 guestrooms. Each one is different in décor, size and atmosphere. In Nelle’s Suite are the personel belongings and furnishings of Nelle Palmer. The Bridal and Anniversary rooms have showers and baths in the round, the names themselves indicate that the Lowell Inn is a special place, for special occasions and for special people. But even the least of the rooms, features the same careful furnishings as the suites, a welcome bottle of wine, stereo hi-fi and a fully charged brandy decanter are standard throughout. The same taste and comfort of the guestrooms are found in the public rooms downstairs. There is no longer liquor in the dining rooms policy, so you must take your drinks in the cozy bar where the locally famous Lowell Inn Cocktail is served. This is a double, at single prices, served in special glasses for men and women. The George Washington Room is the original dining room and the style is set by the displays of Capo di Monte porcelain, Charles II Sheffield silver and Dresden china. Portraits of George and Martha Washington look down approvingly. The other main restaurant is the Matterhorn Room which was added to the hotel in 1959, and which reflects the Swiss heritage of the Palmer family. The piece de resistance is a custom carved mural of the Matterhorn and Zermatt. There is no choice of menu in the Matterhorn Room. The specially conceived dinner comprises escargots, salad, Fondue Bourguignonne and four Swiss wines, one of which is exclusive to this room – the wine yard sends its entire export production here. On Fridays and Saturdays the Matterhorn Room attracts fans from far and wide, so make your reservation as you check in if you’re there on a weekend. The famous American gourmet Duncan Hines first highlighted the hotel in his book Adventure in Good Eating in 1940 – after just 10 years of Palmer management. I think he would give the food and service top rating still, and agree with me that those authentic Williamsburg ladder-back chairs in the George Washington room ought to have something other than plastic seats. Stillwater today is enjoying a boom of recognition for its historic importance and old- world charm. It is trying hard not to become spoiled by the newfound popularity. So long as Palmer family holds the reins at Lowell Inn, the Mount Vernon of the West, it will, I am sure, remain an unspoiled haven for food and rest. But remember that it takes two to enjoy its attributes to the full. Geoffrey Ward
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Those who visit the Minneapolis St Paul area with their wives or husbands should spend at least a couple of nights at the Lowell Inn at Stillwater.  |
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